Alright, pull up a chair, grab a coffee – or maybe a sate stick – ’cause I’m gonna tell you a story. This one’s about my time in Jakarta and a trip that blew my mind. My Best friend Story Munir.
That Time I Went to Krakatau: A Jakarta Detour
So, the company sends me over to Jakarta for a bit, right? They just set up this new head office, and they needed some of us old hands to get things running. Sounds like work, but for me, it was a golden ticket. You know, a chance to actually live in Jakarta, not just visit, and hit all those cool spots around the city.
One day, one of my buddies comes back from this trip, buzzing. “Man,” he says, “you gotta hear about Krakatau. This ‘Anak Krakatau’ volcano, it’s something else.” He was all hyped up about this backpacker trip, but he said, “Too bad, the slots are full, you missed it.” But then he starts telling me about the views – totally natural, like pure Indonesia, just stunning. And the snorkeling? “Pretty decent,” he tells me. Well, you know me, that got my attention. From that moment, I was hooked. Just needed to find the right time, fit it into the office schedule, and I was in.
The Journey Begins: Merak to Bakauheni
Finally, I snagged a spot on a backpacker trip to Anak Krakatau for April 27th to 29th, 2012. The adventure kicked off late, like really late. We all agreed to meet up at Merak Harbor around 10:00 PM on the 27th. Most of the crew were from Jakarta or nearby, so once everyone was there, we hopped on a ferry to Bakauheni. It was around 1:00 AM when we pushed off. That Merak-Bakauheni crossing? About 2 to 2.5 hours. Honestly, it was so late, and a lot of folks were wiped out from their Jakarta drives, so we weren’t really soaking in the night view. If it had been daytime, though, I bet that Sunda Strait scenery would’ve been killer.
We finally hit Bakauheni around 3:30 AM. From there, to get to the Krakatau nature reserve, we still had to make our way to Canti Pier. That’s the closest jump-off point for Krakatau. Even at 3 AM, Bakauheni had plenty of those little public vans, angkot, ready to roll. The drive to Canti Pier took about an hour, I’d say.
Dawn at Canti Pier & Sebesi Island
It was still pitch black when we pulled up to Canti Pier, but everyone was up. Time to splash some water on your face – or if you were feeling ambitious, a quick shower – and then get in our Subuh prayers. From Canti Pier, we were crossing over to Sebesi Island. Now, Sebesi is an inhabited island, and the government actually designated it as the place for homestays for Krakatau visitors. While we waited for our boat to Sebesi, we caught a beautiful sunrise and grabbed some breakfast.
Around 5:30 AM, we were off! The fresh morning air on that wooden boat, the warm, bright sunshine, and those stunning sea views with small, green, mountain-like islands popping up in the distance… man, this archipelago is something else. It just makes you feel how much goodness God has poured into this country.
The Hard Truth: Sebuku Kecil’s Scarred Beauty
The first stop on our backpacker trip was exploring Pulau Sebuku Kecil, an uninhabited island. But here’s the thing that hit me: all around the beach, there were tons of broken, dried-up coral bits, just baking in the sun. Our local guide on the boat told us these were the remains of bomb fishing. Before Krakatau was a proper nature reserve, illegal fishing was rampant, and a common way to catch fish was, unbelievably, with bombs. Of course, that just obliterated the coral reefs and wrecked the ecosystem.
That really made me stop and think. It just hammered home that line from the Qur’an, something like, “Indeed, corruption has appeared on land and sea by reason of what the hands of people have earned.” It’s true, isn’t it? Humans, with all our greed, end up destroying ourselves, the earth, everything. After we’d had our fill of exploring, playing, and swimming on Sebuku Kecil’s beach, we paddled out a bit for some snorkeling. And yeah, underwater, it was even clearer how damaged this area was. The corals were trashed, and it’ll probably take decades, maybe even centuries, for them to grow back. So we just enjoyed swimming in that clear blue ocean around the island. By 10:00 AM, we were back on the boat, heading to Sebesi Island, where our homestay was. Honestly, I was so tired I just crashed without even a shower.
Sunset Magic at Umang Island
Next up was snorkeling, exploring, and catching the sunset at Pulau Umang. We left Sebesi around 1:30 PM. The underwater scene around Umang Island wasn’t much different from Sebuku; mostly just remnants of destroyed corals. But still, swimming in that clear, blue sea and just soaking in the island vibe in the late afternoon? Always amazing, always unforgettable. After a good swim, we explored Umang Island and waited for that famous sunset. And let me tell you, when the sky started turning red, everything changed. It was truly beautiful – that perfect mix of natural island scenery and the fiery glow of dusk, just captivating. If you’re into outdoor adventures, you know this feeling. Absolutely stunning.
We got back to our homestay on Sebesi Island around 8:00 PM and finally got cleaned up. Then came the best part: grilling fish on the beach! Dinner, enjoying the night, with just the sounds of small, chirping creatures (way less noisy than Jakarta!) mixing with the gentle waves on the shore. Everything felt so refreshing. Seriously, you gotta find a moment like this in your life. It’s incredibly helpful for just reflecting on your journey, especially when you’re usually caught up in the city’s crazy hustle.
Anak Krakatau Summit: A Glimmer of Hope
We had to wake up at 3:00 AM to get an early start and catch the sunrise from the peak of Anak Krakatau. The boat ride from Sebesi Island took about an hour and a half. Once we hit the island, it was another 30-minute hike to the summit. Anak Krakatau is actually just the peak of the Krakatau volcano, with most of its body submerged. So, when we landed on the beach, we were practically at the top already. Lucky for us, Anak Krakatau was in a normal state, meaning no dangerous activity. From up there, you could clearly see all the clusters of islands scattered around – many of them are pieces of the original volcano from eruptions decades, even millions of years ago.
Catching a sunrise from a mountain peak is always breathtaking, and it was no different at Krakatau. That sunrise, blending with the stunning panoramic views of the island-studded sea, was pure eye candy. All the long, tiring travel felt totally worth it for a moment like that. The sunrise brings life to the earth, its warmth waking up everything. And we were there, witnessing it up close. Truly unforgettable.
After soaking in that magnificent sunrise from Anak Krakatau’s peak, our next stop was snorkeling at Lagoon Cabe. The locals told us this was where the coral reefs were still healthy. And they were right! At Lagoon Cabe, the corals looked vibrant, and I found a surprising diversity of marine life. Even if the colors weren’t wildly varied, it was still so encouraging to see marine life thriving, untouched by human hands. I even spotted a small stingray swimming gracefully on the living seabed.
As the afternoon rolled around, fully satisfied with our amazing underwater exploration of Lagoon Cabe, we headed back to Sebesi Island. I felt a real sense of hope that the marine life around the Anak Krakatau conservation area could, and should, recover. This hope has to be protected, so we can preserve nature as it’s meant to be, undamaged by human hands. Because our dependence on it isn’t just for the fish in the sea, but also for the local communities who would suffer if the environment around them is ruined.
My Takeaway: Go See It For Yourself!
After two days and two nights of beautiful archipelago views, stunning sunrises and sunsets, and amazing underwater sights, it was time to head back to Jakarta. Even though it was tiring, it was truly enjoyable. In my honest opinion, the landscapes and underwater views of the Anak Krakatau nature reserve are incredibly beautiful, and I highly recommend it to anyone who loves exploring nature. And even if you just want to relax and escape the city’s hustle and bustle, you absolutely won’t be disappointed.
Quick Route Guide: Jakarta – Anak Krakatau
Just in case you wanna try this trip, here’s the lowdown:
- Kampung Rambutan Terminal: Hop on any bus heading to Merak. Lots of them, about a 2-hour ride.
- Merak Harbor: Catch a passenger ferry across to Bakauheni Port in Lampung. That’s about 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on the waves.
- Bakauheni: From there, grab an angkot (public minivan) to Canti Pier.
- Canti Pier: Get on a wooden boat to Sebesi Island. They run daily, morning from Canti to Sebesi, afternoon from Sebesi back to Canti.
- Sebesi Island: Rent a local fisherman’s boat to cross to Anak Krakatau. Budget around IDR 500,000 for the boat rental.
Hope that helps you out! Cheers!