From Sukamade to Bromo: A Journey of Cards, Culture, and Camaraderie
After an incredible night watching turtles lay eggs and releasing hatchlings at Sukamade Beach, our group of five—Alan, Ee Chong, Enwei, Kiat, and I—continued our journey to Mount Bromo. We first made a brief stop at a friend’s house in Banyuwangi to wash up and switch vehicles. My friend suggested we take the Situbondo route to Probolinggo, as the roads were flatter and more comfortable. The drive was estimated to take six to seven hours.
During the journey, my friends kept themselves entertained by playing cards in the back of the car and chatting in a language I couldn’t understand. We made occasional stops at minimarkets to buy water, snacks, and beer before having dinner at a seafood restaurant in Kraksaan, Probolinggo.
Over dinner, my friends offered me a beer, saying with a playful smirk, “We know beer might be restricted in Indonesia, but we want to have a high-five with the boss!” I laughed, accepting their offer. I had to explain that while it may have been restricted in the past, beer is now widely available in most minimarkets across Java. It was a funny moment that broke down any remaining barriers between us.
As we ate, we shared stories and talked about the role of card games in our respective countries. I learned that in Singapore, playing cards often involves betting, whereas in Indonesia, it’s mostly just for fun. They shared that gambling is legal in Singapore and even contributes to state tax revenue, a stark contrast to Indonesia where it is always done in secret. It was a fascinating glimpse into the cultural differences between our two nations.
We arrived at our hotel at the foot of Mount Bromo at around 10 p.m. Stepping out of the car, we were immediately greeted by the crisp, cold mountain air. After a cup of hot tea, we went to our rooms to get some rest, as our Bromo adventure was scheduled to start at 3 a.m. The rest period was short, but that’s the nature of an epic tour: it’s tiring but always fun.
The Breathtaking Beauty of Bromo
At 2:30 a.m., a hotel staff member woke me up. My friends and I were ready, and a Hardtop—the vehicle I always use for Bromo trips—picked us up at 3:15 a.m. Our mission was to witness the legendary Bromo sunrise from Penanjakan, a viewpoint known for its stunning panoramic views of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park.
When we arrived at Penanjakan, there was already a long line of Hardtops ahead of us. We had to walk about 100 meters to reach the viewpoint, but it was worth it. Bromo, it seems, is never quiet. Despite it being a weekday, hundreds of people had gathered to watch the sunrise. While the early morning air was cold, the warmth from the crowd made the temperature feel more bearable.
The moment the sun rose, it was pure magic. The sky erupted in a canvas of brilliant blue, red, and yellow, a painting so vast it seemed to stretch on forever. As the sun climbed higher, we turned our gaze to the right, where a different kind of beauty unfolded. Layer upon layer of mountains emerged from the shadows, their peaks rising from a sea of sand and protected by towering cliffs. From our vantage point, the region looked like a world of its own, isolated and magnificent.
Mount Bromo, with its plumes of smoke, was clearly visible below, looking arid and powerful. In front of it was Mount Batok, a higher, conical peak that is nearly impossible to climb. And in the distance, Mount Semeru—the highest peak in Java—stood tall, majestic, and awe-inspiring. Taking photos with this incredible backdrop felt like we were standing inside a dazzling painting.
Bromo Crater, Teletubbies Hill, and a Legendary Waterfall
After sunrise, we descended into the Sea of Sand to visit the Bromo Crater. My friends chose to ride horses, while I—having been to Bromo many times—decided to wait for them at the parking area. I enjoyed a hot bowl of meatballs and played with a local’s dog while they climbed. From my spot, I could clearly see Poten Temple, a sacred place for the native Tengger people. It’s a place of worship for Hindus, and once a year, the Tengger community holds the Kasodo ceremony, which ends with offerings being thrown into the crater.
Soon, my friends returned, and we drove to the Savanna of Bromo, affectionately known as Teletubbies Hill. The rolling green hills stretched far into the distance, and despite the rising sun, the cool mountain air made exploring the area comfortable. After taking plenty of pictures, we made one final stop at Bromo Sand Whisper, a small desert formed from volcanic ash. By noon, our Bromo tour was complete, and we headed back to the hotel for a well-deserved rest and lunch.
I had arranged for us to have lunch at my friend Agung’s house, and the meal was fantastic. After eating, we rested for a few hours. At 1 p.m., we set out to visit Madakaripura Waterfall, a legendary site linked to Gajah Mada, the Prime Minister of the Majapahit Kingdom.
The waterfall was about a 40-minute drive from Bromo. After arriving at the gate, we had to walk for another 30 minutes, crossing a river with the help of a local guide. The waterfall itself felt like a constant downpour, and we were immediately soaked. Many locals rent out umbrellas and raincoats here, but we embraced the refreshing mist.
Unfortunately, it started to drizzle while we were there. Our guide warned us not to linger, as a sudden heavy rain could cause flash floods and block our path back. We quickly took some photos and left just as the rain began to pour. We were lucky—the river hadn’t risen too high, and we made it back to the gate safely. We waited out the heavy rain at a local stall, but it showed no signs of stopping. We decided to return to the hotel without waiting for it to clear.
That night, we were supposed to stay at a homestay provided by our rafting operator in Pekalen, Probolinggo. However, after hearing that the homestay was filled with mosquitoes, we decided to spend another night at our hotel on the slopes of Mount Bromo. We arrived back at the hotel in the late afternoon, just as the rain stopped. We spent the rest of the evening relaxing in the cool Bromo air, looking forward to our next adventure: rafting on the Pekalen River.
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